Tuesday, January 12, 2016

Diamond in the Rough





It’s truly amazing how a little paint and new hardware can bring an antique back to life! This was a side table that I scored for free from a friend. Check your neighbor’s curb on trash day or visit a flea market on the weekend. You will be sure to find a diamond in the rough for next to nothing.

I absolutely LOVE, LOVE, LOVE painting with Annie Sloan Chalk Paint. There is no priming, no sanding, no hassle! For more fun facts about Annie Sloan Chalk Paint, visit the Stylish Patina’s website.
 

What You Need for Part 1:

  • 1 Quart of Annie Sloan Chalk Paint ($38.50) - Color: Provence
    • This should cover two good size dressers, with some paint left over.
  • Big Fat Lye Soap ($10.00)
    • Substitute: 9 oz. Dawn Dish Soap ($0.97)
  • 4 oz. Annie Sloan Soft Wax ($15.00) - Color: Clear
  • Jack Richeson 2” (Medium) Brush ($40.50) 
    • Substitute: Wooster 1 ½” Brush from Home Depot ($17.84)
  • Jack Richeson 1 ⅝” Wax Brush ($30.50) 
  • Sanding Sheet $3.97 (400 Grit)
  • Beetle Hardware ($2.99 - On sale at Anthropologie) 
  • Clean White Rags ($0 - I cut up old t-shirts)
Total for Ms. “I don’t look at price tags:” $141.46
Total for Ms. Thrifty: $94.26

*All of my supplies, aside from the hardware, were purchased from Stylish Patina.

Learn How:

Step 1: Remove all hardware and clean your piece with a mild cleaner to remove dust, dirt, and/or grime.

Step 2 (optional): If you have purchased new hardware for your piece, you may have to drill new holes and/or fill old holes with wood caulk. Don’t forget to do this before painting.

Step 3: Start painting! The beauty of chalk paint is that it is easy to work with, goes a really long way, and dries super fast. I only did two coats on my piece.

Step 4: Distress. Use your sandpaper to distress the edges and trim of the piece.

Step 5: Wipe off all excess chalk dust with a dry paper towel or cloth.

Step 6: Waxing time! Make sure to work in small sections. Apply a thin layer of the clear wax with your wax brush. Remember, less is more. Let the wax dry for a couple of minutes before buffing. Buff with a clean, soft cloth and make sure to switch out cloths if one becomes too saturated with wax. Repeat this step until the entire piece has been waxed and buffed.

Step 7: Run your hand over the entire piece. It should feel like butter. If it feels tacky or sticky, buff those areas again. 




 What You Need for Part 2:
Step 1: Measure the length, width, and depth of your drawer so that you can accurately mark and cut your paper to fit accordingly. 

Step 2: Starting cutting! Don't worry if your measurements are slightly off. You can always cover the top edge of each side with ribbon (see Step 5). 

Step 3:  Mod Podge time. I suggest working in sections. Apply the Mod Podge directly to the wood in a thick, even coat. Then, place the paper on top and press. Make sure to smooth out any air bubbles. I also apply Mod Podge to the top edges of the paper to ensure that it is extra secured to the wood. Repeat this step for all of the drawer sides. 

Step 4: Let dry. The Mod Podge will turn clear when it has sufficiently dried. 

Step 5 (optional): My measuring wasn't perfect, so I decided to cover the top edge of each side with thin, gold ribbon. It made all my lines much cleaner.